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The history of chocolate

The history of chocolate began a long time ago, somewhere in the middle of America. In the shade, provided by tall trees that form the tropical forest, grows a little tree called the cocoa tree. This tree is very fragile. It needs shade from the giant (coconut palms, palm trees and other gliricidia sepium) so as not to be burnt by the sun.

For a very long time, the cocoa tree and its fruit stayed unknown to mankind. Only the little animals of the forest have a feast of its fruits. Then one day a man discovers this tree and curiously tastes its fruits and brings it back to his tribe; probably one of his fellow understands that the fruit would be better sun dried and grinded between two stones. This was the first contact between man and the cocoa tree.

Between this discovery and the installation of the first culture of cocoa, many centuries or even many millenaries passed.

The first traces of cocoa culture were found with the Mayas (1500 B.-C/1500 A.-C). (Moreover the word "chocolate" comes from the Maya term "Xocoatl").

The Mayas used the cocoa bean for money (a slave was worth 100 beans), the income tax was even calculated in cocoa beans.

Mayas grinding cocoa beans:

The "Aztèques" (1000 B.-C/1521 A.-C) also cultivated the cocoa ("cacahuatl" for the Aztèques). The cocoa beans was the only money valuable in all of the empires' provinces. The cocoa was also used as a drink. Made from a broth of cocoa beans mixed with pepper, ginger, and even some honey. All of this was then served on cooked corn.

Outside the production zones, the people didn't have access to chocolate. This drink was reserved for the dignitary.

When in 1519 Hernan Cortès conquered the new world (for him, India). When the Spanish tasted the "mix" realised by the "Aztèques", they couldn't help but wince. The drink was so different from what they were used to. After a few months in this hostile environment of the "Astèques", they finally got accustom to the drink, but made some modifications. They replaced the pepper by adding vanilla, musk and sugar. The Spanish couldn't know that they had just created one of the most consumed drinks in history. Chocolate is born.

In 1527, Cortès returned to Spain, he brought with him some cocoa beans to give to the Kings' Court. Chocolate did not wake such great passion in Europe. Its' popularity took flight in 1585, date in which the first change to cocoa was made coming from Veracruz going to Spain. Then it was followed regularly by other convoys. It is the first road for chocolate.

In 1615, Louis XIII wife, Princess Anne d'Autriche, child of Spain, loves chocolate, which she brought with her from the Spanish Court. This is the way the French were introduced to chocolate.

In 1659, David Chaillou, the first chocolate maker, is given the privilege exclusively to make, sale, debit a composition named chocolate. He will make a fortune in Paris.

In 1660, princess Marie-Thérèse d'Autriche, married the King Louis XIV. She is also an unconditional of chocolate, truth to be told, she used to say about herself: The king and chocolate are my only two passions. Stimulated by such reactions, the consumption of chocolate, which was reserved only for the court, now is spreading to the drawing rooms of the French "élite society".

1661, The first chocolate maker is established in France, Paris.

The naturalist Linné, created in 1734, a new terminology to design chocolate : "Theobroma cocoa" which means: "drink of the Gods".

In 1674 realised the first chocolate bar that you bit in (created by the store "At the Coffee Mill and Tobacco Roll").

It is under the reign of Louis XV that chocolate knows its first revolution. Fabrication of confectioneries of chocolate is started (candies, dragées...).

Starting 1780, the Queen Marie-Antoinette, who possessed her personal chocolate maker, will promote the expansion of chocolate.

As time goes by Europe embraces chocolate. The little chocolate makers give in to the chocolate industries, which will permit chocolate to become accessible to all.

At the start of the XIX century the ones who will become the big names in chocolate making show: Van Houten (1815), Menier (1820), Suchard (1824).

Antoine-Brutus Menier invented, in 1820, the chocolate bar.

Van Houten, in 1828, invented the cocoa powder.

Charles-Amédée Kolher added, in 1830, hazelnuts in the chocolate.

Daniel Peter and Nestle in 1875, have the original idea to add milk in the chocolate. (Birth of the chocolate milk).

Franck Mars invented, in 1923, the first bar dipped in chocolate.

Thanks to these "dream" inventors, chocolate will be known worldwide and a never-ending expansion.

From cocoa to chocolate...

Botanical harvest:

Cacaoyer (scientific name: THEOBROMA CACAO) is a delicate culture. Its' sphere spreads from 15 degrees North, latitude to 15 degrees South, latitude (approximately 3.000 km), she is then, exclusively tropical.

Its planting is done in the shadows of many different tall trees, depending on the regions. The cocoa tree has a great need for natural humidity. If at fault we practice irrigation, hygrometry of the air must be superior to 90%.

The cocoa tree in its third year measures 3 to 5 meters. In its twelfth year it reaches approximately 8 meters. It gives its first fruit between 5th and 7th year. Meanwhile with the methods of harvest being used, the first harvest can be done starting from the third year.

The fruit name is CABOSSE (the scientific name is different depending on the origin of the country that is exploiting). It measures from 10 to 25 cm long and 6 to 12 cm in diameter depending on the variety. She weighs 300g to 500g and contains 25 to 75 beans.

A cabosse :

Depending on the region and altitude, the fruit comes to maturity between 4 to 6 months.

In all of the countries producing, two harvests are done annually. One is called the main harvest and the other, the intermediate harvest. This last one is not plentiful.

The harvest period vary according to the regions.

Africa - Brazil:
Main harvest: October to February
Intermediate harvest: May to September

West indies - Venezuela:
One harvest only: from January to April

The cocoa gives approximately 25 to 100 cabosses at the main harvest. The grain from the cabosse is called "CACAO BEAN".

Its length is from 20 to 25mm. It is made up of:
- One almond,
- One envelope,
- One sprout.

There are three varieties of cocoas: the Criollos, the Forasteros and the Trinitarios.

The Criollos are found in Mexico, in Central America and in Colombia. These beans give a very fine and delicate cocoa.

The Forasteros are found in Brazil and in French West Africa. These beans represent the main production worldwide.

The Trinitarios are found in Venezuela, in Ceylon and in Indonesia, they are of very good quality, so they are very busy.

The worldwide production represents approximately 2700,000 tons of cocoa beans. By its importance, the third market worldwide. Sugar being the first and coffee the second.

Operations underway at the harvest site:

Exploitation - Harvest:

At the harvest the cabosses are detached from the trees. The bark is torn, the cocoa grains are extracted with the pulp. Then begins the time of fermenting.

Fermentation:

The beans are arranged in cases for fermentation. This operation is so to give the characteristic aroma to the cocoa, also permits the pulp still joined to the beans, to detach.

Drying:

Drying can be done naturally with the sun or artificially with heating 100°C or 120°C. This last method is not used often. The characteristic tint often bronze is achieved by drying the envelope of the cocoa bean.

Operations of the fabrication in chocolate making:

The passage of cocoa beans in chocolate making is obligatory and vital. The beans will be subjected by many delicate manipulations.

The beans must pass a quality control:

• Must not present an odour,
• Must be devoid of any foreign bodies (insects...),
• Must not surpass a certain level of water.

Cleaning of the beans:

It is necessary to do a sorting, so as to retrieve all foreign bodies that could have mixed in with the cocoa beans (pebbles, dust...).

Roasting machine:

The beans are roasted (by hot air) in a metallic sphere, with a rotary movement, this way the cocoa beans will lose 5 to 15% of their weight.

Crushing:

The crushing is done with the help of a machine called "Casse-cocoa -tarare", this makes the beans burst. Also does the separation of grains and shells.

Sprout separation:

In each bean there is always a sprout, which is not edible. Another machine called "the sprout remover", equiped with a cylinder sifter is used to eliminate the sprout.

Grinding:

The cocoa grains are crushed into a paste called "pure paste of cocoa" or "cocoa liqueur" (scientific name).

Pure cocoa paste:

This natural product contains approximately 50% of cocoa butter (fat matter). At this stage the pure cocoa paste can be used as is, but because of its intense bitterness, it is used as coloration or to flavour pastries.

Extraction:

With the help of a hydraulic press, we obtain two products:

• Cocoa butter;
• Cocoa oil cake.

Cocoa butter is mainly used in the preparation of covering of chocolate bars.

The cocoa oil cake is used as a base in the preparation of cocoa powder.

Fabrication of cocoa powder:

The treatment of the centrifugal of the cocoa press cake gives a powder containing between 10 to 25% of cocoa butter. The cocoa powders are intended for the fabrication industry (icing paste, stuffing of chocolate candies, powder for breakfast...).

Conching:

Conching is one of the most important operations, it is done in a machine called "conch" (composed of a vat with double siding which permit the circulation of hot and cold water and composed mechanics which create a movement of the mass, grinding and mixing non-stop). This operation will eliminate the humidity and bad odours; but it will above all permit the modification of the taste, the refinement and homogenisation (this is when the chocolate acquires all of its finesse and its smoothness) of the chocolate paste.

Temperature and moulding:

The chocolate must be brought back to a determined temperature for the moulding (a temperature which will permit the crystallisation of the cocoa butter, which is essential if we want a pretty shine). This entire operation is automatically done in a machine called "tempéreuse".

The moulding includes different steps:

Distribution of moulds, dosage of chocolate, patting, cooling down passage and turning out.

After all these operations, the chocolate (also called chocolate cover) will be delivered to many transformers (confectioner, chocolate maker, confectioner, cookie makers...).

Productive countries (between 1993 and 1997)
Pays	Percentage of world wide market in 1993	Percentage of world wide market in 1997
Ivory Coast	32.1 %	40 %
Ghana	8.9 %	13 %
Indonesia	9.1 %	11 %
Brazil	14.3 %	5.8 %
Nigeria	5.8 %	5.3 %
Cameroon	N.A.	4.2 %
Malaysia	9.4 %	4 %
Ecuador	3.1 %	3.3 %
Domenican Republic	1.9 %	2.1 %
Colombia	2.3 %	1.7 %
Mexico	1.8 %	1.4 %
Papouasia	1.5 %	1.3 %
Other countries	9.8 %	6.9 %

The work of the chocolate maker

Preparation of chocolate:

1st step :

The chocolate must be minced in pieces and then put very dry in the "cul de poule" (a plate).

2nd step :

The minced chocolate is melted in a double boiler, never stop stirring.

3rd step :

The melted chocolate will be cooled off by flowing a large part on the very clean and very dry marble (the work table) and keep a non-stop stirring with the help of a triangle, using a series of professional gestures.

4th step :

At the contact of marble the chocolate will freeze (solidify). You must spread and bring together as much as necessary, until a light thickening, at this time the chocolate must be quickly put back in the "cul de poule" and very quickly mixed without making a block with the chocolate.

5th step :

Now the chocolate must be brought to a certain temperature to be used (with the help of the temperature table below) or the cocoa butter will not crystallise in a satisfying way (this operation is essential to reach a shiny, clean, stable dark melting chocolate covering).

6th step :

The chocolate maker will be able to use the chocolate for any use (decorating, fixing, inside of chocolates, casting...).

Text translated from http://perso.wanadoo.fr/alferic/